Puglia rivals Sicily for being the largest producer of Italian wine. In fact, this 360 kilometer region produces almost twice as much wine as all of Australia. When one considers this region’s vast amount of vines and varietals, along with its plethora of or DOCs (25 certified regions to be exact) one can do little else but marvel.  But many wine snobs and some critics still regard Puglia only as a bulk-wine producer or, at best, as a source for a few good values.

However, over the last few years more and more high quality, intriguing wines are appearing on the world market, replete with a rustic elegance, emerging from this region.  And, quite honestly, the quality of wine you can purchase in Puglia is indeed a marvel for the price.

Viticulturally, Puglia is divided into three sections, each with its own personality. The northern region borders Abruzzo on the north and Campagna on the West. White wines here are based on the varietals Bombino Bianco, Trebbiano, and Verdeca. Reds, as well as some rosés, are made from Montepulciano, Sngiovese, and Uva di Troia.  You won’t necessarily find the customary chardonnays here…certainly not the oak-character of California Chardonnays.  Yet, the whites available still pair beautifully with the fish dishes served and the subtle flavors of the Gargano and Pugliese cuisine in general. You can also find some very smooth and full-bodied reds which perfectly off-set the subtle, nutty qualities of the regions’ cheeses.

The central region lies in the province of Bari, Puglia’s major metropolitan area. Chief among the DOCs here are Castel del Monte and Gravina, followed by Rosso Barletta, Rosso Canosa, and the sweet Moscato di Trani. In these zones, red wines are made mostly from Montepulciano and Sangiovese; while dry whites are derived mainly from Bombino Bianco, Verdeca, Trebbiano Toscano, and Greco di Tufo. Sweet whites are based on Moscato.

Another DOC to the south of this central region is Gioia del Cole. This is where we first find what might be considered Puglia’s hottest, in several senses of the word, varietal: Primitivo. It is both high in alcohol and fashionable in the marketplace. In fact, it’s become so popular that, over the last few years, its price has risen almost three-fold.  Wine from the region has seen a marked surge in the UK and is gaining popularity in the US as well as other countries around the world.

Puglia’s southern-most region, known as the Salento peninsula, is where many of the noteworthy Pugliese wines originate. This region benefits from ideal soil and climactic conditions for wine production.

Most of the reds, as well as the rosés, here are made from Negroamaro blended with Malvasia Nera, Montepulciano, Sngiovese, and a host of other grapes. Lately, the southern DOCs gaining the most notice are Salice Salentino, Cpertino, Leverano, and Alezio. In addition, Primitivo is also flourishing here—especially in the towns of Sava and Manduria.

White wines in the south of Puglia cover a wide range of varietals including Malvasia, Tebbiano, Verdeca, Bombino, as well as Chardonnay, Sauvignon, and Pinot Bianco.

For years, Puglia produced wines.  Whites were produced for a large part to be used as blending wines for Vermouth. But like many regions in Europe, there has been a sea change, both in the vineyards and in the wineries, from quantity to quality, that’s been bolstered by a large influx of cash from foreign and domestic investors.  One can only hope that quality remains the driving force as wines from this enchanted part of Italy receive much deserved attention.

Cin Cin!!

Excellent Puglia Producers:

•  Tormaresca (Antinori)
•  Tenuta Rubino
•  Tenuta Albano Carrisi
•  Cosimo Taurino
•  Conti Zecca
•  Felline

In a pinch, a birra rosa will do.