Rising up from the coastal drive that stretches the length of the Gargano Pennisula are the endemic woods of Aleppo pines which, with their pungent, salty scent and green contrast to the glaring white of the coast. Another variety of coastal pine, Pineta Marzini, is one of the few Italian pines that come `from seed', and is genetically pure and perfectly suited to the unique microclimate of the Gargano. In the underbrush there’s an incredible variety of Mediterranean vegetation – approximately 225 species have been painstakingly all identified by the Park’s Forest Rangers. Along the coast, you can easily see vixen, wild boar and roe deer, which is unusual in the lower Mediterranean vegetation.
This must be one of the most spectacular drives in the world. Stretching from Rodi di Garganico, and rising up beyond Peschici, the view across the sea is extraordinary. Only one small section of the coastal route was disappointing and all travellers should be prepared for the stretch of resort development between the lower coast-line just south of Peschici on to Vieste. While not entirely unattractive, they certainly represent some of the larger commercial tourist development in the area and do detract from the natural beauty of the region. In contrast, further down the coastline, luxury hotels, spas, and resorts are taking a more subtle approach, blending themselves into secluded coves and private beaches. The drive is not for the faint of heart. Switch-back (or hair-pin turns) abounds and there are very few guard-rails. The sheer drop along some of the cliffs down to the sea is a bit hair-raising but the view is spectacular. The descent becomes more difficult from Vieste down to Mattinata and Mount Sant’Angelo, so if you have a queasy passenger, recommend some medicine for motion-sickness.
The Coves
But, as difficult as the driving may be, it is a splendid vantage point for the wonderful Garganic coast, one of the few coastlines in Italy with such extensive numbers of gorges, coves, bays, and faraglioni and for the height of its reefs and rock archways. It is an astonishing discovery. One can easily spend the day along the coastline, breaking the traveling up with dives into the limpid waters or sunbathing on the beautiful sand of one of the many secluded beaches. Here we list only a few examples of the wonders that can be admired along the coast (there are approximately 128 different coves). The most well-known include the Cove of the Sweethearts, the Bell Cove (for its shape), the Smashed Cove (with a central hole and a little inner beach), the Smeralda Cove (the green color is given by the presence of mosses and lichens on the cliff walls), the Pizzomunno (the most famous faraglione in Vieste), and the Bay of the Zagare.
Most of the reefs are made up of calcareous white cliff, reflections which are caught in the blue of the sea. It is a transparent, evocative and bewitching landscape that escapes adequate description.
The Lagoon and Lake of Lesina
Both can be admired leaving once you leave the highway and continue along the superhighway that leads to Vico del Gargano. It is a unique sight for certain. Two views of the sea inside the coast separated only by a dune cord that divides the actual lagoon from the sea. The lagoon of Lesina represents one of the most interesting biotypes on the Adriatic. Since the Middle Ages it attracted noblemen and friars from the nearby abbeys, who fought for the control of fishing and hunting rights. The sandy track can be taken both by car (in part) and by foot, with paths that reach the Natural Reserve of the Lake of Lesina, a fresh and salt water lake. During the spring and autumnal migrations you can observe extremely rare black storks, white storks, groups of flamingos and cranes, and herons and garzettes who call the lake their home year round.
It is possible to take catamaran excursions inside the lagoon in hopes of glimpsing some of its natural wonders. On the east coast of the Lake of Varano rises the solitary church of the SS. Annunziata. Inside is a preserved, highly precious miraculous Crucifix that is carried in procession on the occasion of public calamities and especially when the harvests are in danger for lack of water or freezing. Its beauty has lead to popular mythology, some going so far as to say that it is the ‘true portrait of the Salvatore’.
